What to Know Before Getting a Pet Tortoise (Honest Guide for Families)

Your kid wants a tortoise. Maybe they saw one at a nature center, or maybe the idea of a little dinosaur roaming around the house is too cool to resist. I get the appeal — tortoises are genuinely fascinating animals with real personalities.

But I need to be honest with you: a pet tortoise is not what most families expect. It’s not a “starter reptile.” It’s not low-maintenance. And depending on the species, it might still be alive when your grandkids have grandkids.

Here’s what you actually need to know before bringing one home.

The Lifespan Reality

This is the single most important thing to understand. Tortoises live a very, very long time.

Let that sink in. A Russian tortoise purchased for your 10-year-old could still be alive when that child is 60. A sulcata might outlive everyone currently in your household.

This isn’t like getting a hamster that lives 2-3 years. You’re making a commitment that spans decades. People put tortoises in their wills. Some tortoise rescues are full of animals that outlived their owners or were surrendered by families who didn’t realize what they were signing up for.

Ask yourself honestly: who will care for this animal in 20 years? In 40? If you can’t answer that, you might not be ready.

A Word About Sulcatas

Sulcata tortoises deserve a special mention because they’re the species most commonly sold at pet stores and reptile expos — and they’re the species most commonly surrendered to rescues.

They start small. Baby sulcatas are about 2 inches and adorable. Pet store employees tell you they’re “easy” and “fun.” What they don’t always tell you is that this animal will grow to 100+ pounds, need an outdoor enclosure the size of a large yard, and live potentially over a century.

Sulcata rescues are overwhelmed. If you’re considering a sulcata, please research their adult size and needs thoroughly. For most families, a Russian or Hermann’s tortoise is a much more practical choice. We’ve compared the best beginner tortoise species if you want to explore your options.

Housing: Bigger Than You Think

Indoor Enclosure

Baby tortoises can start in a 40-gallon tank or equivalent-sized tortoise table. But they grow, and the enclosure needs to grow with them. An adult Russian tortoise needs at minimum a 4×2 foot enclosure — and bigger is always better.

Tortoise tables (open-top enclosures) work better than glass tanks for most species because they provide better airflow and make it easier to maintain a temperature gradient. Glass tanks can trap humidity at levels that aren’t appropriate for arid species like Russians.

Our indoor enclosure guide walks through the setup details.

Outdoor Time

If you live in a suitable climate, outdoor time during warm months is excellent for tortoises. Natural sunlight provides UVB better than any bulb can replicate. Build or buy an outdoor pen with walls they can’t climb or dig under (tortoises are surprisingly good diggers), with shade and a water dish.

Substrate

Depending on species, a mix of organic topsoil (no fertilizers or pesticides) and coconut coir works well. This holds some moisture for humidity while allowing digging. Avoid sand alone (impaction risk), newspaper (no digging), or reptile carpet (unnatural, doesn’t allow burrowing).

Lighting and Temperature: This Is Where People Get It Wrong

Tortoises are reptiles. They can’t regulate their body temperature internally like mammals do. They depend entirely on their environment to warm up, cool down, and process calcium. If the lighting is wrong, nothing else matters — your tortoise will slowly decline.

UVB Lighting

Tortoises need UVB light to metabolize calcium and vitamin D3. Without it, they develop metabolic bone disease (MBD) — their shells go soft, their bones weaken, and it’s painful and eventually fatal.

You need a quality UVB tube light (T5 HO or T8) that covers at least 2/3 of the enclosure. The bulb needs to be the right strength for the species and the right distance from the tortoise. Compact/coil UVB bulbs are generally not sufficient — they don’t produce a wide enough coverage area.

UVB bulbs need replacing every 6-12 months even if they still produce visible light, because UVB output degrades over time. This is an ongoing cost most people forget.

Heat

You need to create a temperature gradient in the enclosure:

• Basking spot: 95-105°F (depending on species)
• Cool side: 70-80°F
• Nighttime: Can drop to 65-70°F for most species

A basking lamp (ceramic heat emitter or halogen flood bulb) positioned over one end creates the warm zone. The tortoise moves between warm and cool areas to regulate their temperature. If the whole enclosure is one temperature, they can’t thermoregulate properly.

Use a digital thermometer (preferably with a probe) to monitor temperatures. Don’t guess. Those stick-on thermometers are inaccurate.

Humidity

This varies by species. Russian tortoises need relatively dry conditions (40-60% humidity). Tropical species like red-foots need higher humidity (60-80%). Research your specific species. Wrong humidity causes respiratory infections and shell problems.

Diet: It’s Not Just Lettuce

The number one diet mistake is feeding iceberg lettuce. It’s almost entirely water with virtually no nutritional value. A tortoise eating mostly iceberg lettuce is basically starving while looking fed.

What Most Tortoises Should Eat

For common species like Russian, Hermann’s, and Greek tortoises, the diet should be primarily:

• Dark leafy greens: dandelion greens (their favorite), turnip greens, mustard greens, endive, escarole, spring mix
• Weeds: dandelions (flowers and leaves), clover, plantain weed — these are actually ideal tortoise food and they’re free in your yard (as long as no pesticides are used)
• Hay: Timothy hay and orchard grass for fiber
• Occasional treats: squash, bell pepper, prickly pear cactus pads

What NOT to Feed

• Fruit (for Mediterranean species) — too much sugar, causes digestive issues. Red-foots can have some fruit, but Mediterranean species should get very little to none.
• Iceberg lettuce — nutritionally worthless
• Dog or cat food — wrong protein type, damages kidneys long-term
• Bread, pasta, processed food — tortoises are herbivores (most species)
• Spinach, beet greens (in large amounts) — high in oxalates that bind calcium

Calcium Supplementation

Dust food with calcium powder (without D3 if UVB lighting is adequate, with D3 if supplementation is needed) 3-5 times per week. Keep a cuttlebone in the enclosure for the tortoise to gnaw on. Calcium deficiency is the most common nutritional problem in captive tortoises.

If your tortoise stops eating, something is wrong with their environment or health. Don’t just wait it out — check our article on why tortoises stop eating and address it quickly.

Vet Care: Exotic Vet = Expensive Vet

This is a cost that catches many families by surprise. Tortoises need an exotic animal veterinarian — not every vet treats reptiles, and the ones who do charge more than a standard dog-and-cat vet.

Before getting a tortoise, find an exotic vet in your area and confirm they treat tortoises specifically. Some reptile vets specialize in snakes and lizards but don’t have much tortoise experience. The Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) has a vet finder on their website.

First Year Cost Breakdown

Ongoing annual costs after year one run $300-$600 (food, bulb replacements, substrate, annual vet visit). Over a 50-year lifespan, you’re looking at $15,000-$30,000+ in total cost of care. That’s the reality of tortoise ownership.

Why Pet Store Advice Is Often Wrong

I don’t want to villainize every pet store employee — some are knowledgeable and genuinely care. But the systemic incentives in pet retail aren’t aligned with animal welfare. Here are common pieces of bad advice I see:

• “This small tank is fine for a tortoise.” — It’s fine for about 3 months. Then you need something bigger. They’re selling you a product, not a long-term solution.
• “Just use a heat rock.” — Heat rocks cause thermal burns. Tortoises can’t feel heat well on their belly and will sit on a hot rock until they’re injured. Use overhead heating only.
• “A compact UVB bulb is fine.” — For most enclosures, it’s not. Linear tube UVB provides much better coverage.
• “They can eat fruit/lettuce as a staple.” — Already covered above. This leads to malnutrition.
• “Sulcatas stay small.” — No. They don’t. A baby sulcata is small. An adult is a 100-pound animal that can push through drywall.
• “You don’t need a vet for a tortoise.” — Every animal needs veterinary care. Tortoises get parasites, respiratory infections, and shell rot. Regular checkups catch problems early.

Always cross-reference pet store advice with reputable tortoise care sources. The Tortoise Forum, r/tortoise on Reddit, and species-specific care sheets from herpetological societies are good starting points.

Handling and Interaction

Tortoises aren’t cuddly pets. They can learn to recognize you, come to you for food, and tolerate handling, but they don’t seek out affection the way a dog or even a hamster might.

When you do handle them:

• Support the whole body — don’t grab by the edges of the shell
• Keep handling sessions short (5-10 minutes)
• Don’t flip them upside down (this can cause organ compression and is stressful)
• Wash your hands before and after (salmonella risk, as with all reptiles)

Most tortoise owners find that the enjoyment comes from watching them explore, hand-feeding them their favorite greens, and observing their slow-but-steady personalities. It’s a different kind of pet relationship — more like tending a garden than owning a dog.

Is a Tortoise Right for Your Family?

A tortoise might be right for you if:

• At least one adult in the family is genuinely excited about tortoise keeping (not just the kid)
• You’re comfortable with a pet that will still need care decades from now
• You can afford an exotic vet
• You have space for a proper enclosure (and room to upgrade as they grow)
• You’re okay with a pet that’s more observational than interactive
• You’ve researched the specific species you’re considering

A tortoise might NOT be right if:

• Your child wants a cuddly, interactive pet
• You’re looking for a “starter” pet to test responsibility
• You move frequently or have uncertain long-term plans
• The initial setup cost would be a stretch
• No exotic vets are accessible in your area

The Bottom Line

Tortoises are amazing animals. They really are. There’s something about watching a creature that’s essentially unchanged since the dinosaur era slowly and deliberately go about its day. But they deserve owners who understand what they’re getting into.

If you’ve read all of this and you’re still excited — good. You’re the kind of owner a tortoise needs. Do more species-specific research, set up the enclosure properly before buying the animal, and find your exotic vet. Your family is about to gain a member who might become the world’s most interesting heirloom.

If you’ve read this and you’re thinking “that’s more than I expected” — that’s okay too. Recognizing that is responsible, not disappointing. There are wonderful pets with shorter commitments and simpler care needs that might be a better fit right now. And you can always come back to the tortoise idea when the timing is right.

If you think your pet is ill, call a vet immediately. All health-related questions should be referred to your veterinarian. They can examine your pet, understand its health history, and make well informed recommendations for your pet.

903pets.com Staff