How to Set Up a Praying Mantis Enclosure (Step-by-Step)

One of the best things about keeping a praying mantis is that they don’t need a huge, expensive setup. But “simple” doesn’t mean “anything goes.” I’ve seen too many new keepers house their mantis in the same plastic cup it arrived in, or stick it in a massive aquarium where it can’t find its food.

Both extremes cause problems. A good mantis enclosure hits the sweet spot: enough space for natural behavior, proper ventilation to prevent mold, and the right humidity and temperature for your species.

Let me walk through everything you need to know to set up a proper enclosure, whether you’re keeping a Chinese mantis or an orchid mantis.

Enclosure Size: The 3x Rule

The general rule for mantis enclosure sizing is straightforward:

• Height: At least 3x the mantis’s body length
• Width: At least 2x the body length
• Depth: At least 2x the body length

Height matters more than floor space because mantises are arboreal. They spend most of their time hanging upside down from branches or the enclosure ceiling, and they need vertical space for molting. A mantis that doesn’t have enough room to hang and shed its exoskeleton can have a bad molt, which is often fatal.

Size Chart by Common Species

For nymphs (baby mantises), you can start smaller and upgrade as they grow. Many keepers use 32-oz deli cups for L1-L3 nymphs, which is fine as a temporary setup. But once your mantis hits L4 or so, it’s time for a real enclosure.

A note on deli cups: The 16-oz or even 8-oz cups that many online sellers ship mantises in are transport containers, not homes. Keeping a mantis in a shipping cup long-term is like keeping a hamster in a shoebox. It survives, but it’s not thriving. Please upgrade your mantis to a proper enclosure as soon as possible.

Enclosure Types: Pros and Cons

There are three main types of mantis enclosures, and each has trade-offs.

Mesh/Screen Enclosures

Mesh pop-up enclosures (like the ones sold as butterfly habitats) are popular with mantis keepers for good reason.

Pros:

• Excellent ventilation (the #1 advantage)
• Mantises can climb the mesh walls easily
• Lightweight and collapsible for storage
• Inexpensive ($8-15 for most sizes)

Cons:

• Hard to maintain high humidity for tropical species
• Fruit flies can escape through the mesh (use a mesh size that matches your feeder insects)
• Less visibility compared to glass or acrylic
• Not as sturdy or attractive

Best for: Temperate species (Chinese mantis, Carolina mantis), keepers with multiple mantises who need affordable housing, species that need high ventilation.

Glass Terrariums

Small glass terrariums with screen tops offer a nice balance of visibility and function.

Pros:

• Great visibility for observing your mantis
• Holds humidity well
• Sturdy and attractive
• Easy to heat with a small heat mat if needed

Cons:

• Heavier and more expensive ($15-40)
• Can have ventilation issues if the screen top is small
• Mantises can’t climb glass walls (must provide branches to the top)
• Condensation can build up

Best for: Tropical species (orchid mantis, ghost mantis) that need higher humidity, display setups, keepers with just one or two mantises.

Acrylic/Plastic Enclosures

Purpose-built acrylic mantis enclosures are increasingly popular. These are usually clear boxes with ventilation holes and a magnetic or sliding door.

Pros:

• Excellent visibility
• Lighter than glass
• Often designed specifically for mantises (proper ventilation, feeding holes)
• Good humidity retention with ventilation

Cons:

• Scratch easily
• More expensive ($15-35) than mesh
• Quality varies widely between brands
• Some cheap ones have inadequate ventilation

Best for: Keepers who want a dedicated mantis setup with good visibility and moderate humidity control.

For a deeper look at habitat types and how to match them to your species, check our praying mantis habitat guide.

Ventilation: The Most Underrated Factor

Poor ventilation kills more pet mantises than almost anything else. Stagnant air combined with moisture leads to mold growth, respiratory issues, and bacterial infections.

Your enclosure needs cross-ventilation, meaning air should be able to flow in from one side and out from another. A container with just a few holes poked in the lid doesn’t cut it.

Minimum ventilation guidelines:

• At least one full side or the top should be mesh/screen
• If using a sealed container, add ventilation holes on two opposite sides (not just the top)
• For tropical species in high-humidity setups, ventilation is even more critical to prevent mold

If you notice condensation on the walls that doesn’t evaporate within an hour of misting, your ventilation is insufficient.

Substrate Options

Mantis substrate doesn’t need to be complicated. Its main purposes are holding humidity and catching waste.

I personally use paper towels for nymphs and juvenile mantises because cleanup is a breeze. For adult tropical species like orchid mantises, I switch to a layer of coconut fiber topped with a bit of sphagnum moss. It looks nicer and holds humidity much better.

Decorations and Climbing Surfaces

Mantises need things to climb on and hang from. This isn’t optional. A bare enclosure with nothing to grip means your mantis can’t position itself properly for hunting or molting.

Essential furnishings:

• Branches or sticks: Natural twigs (pesticide-free, baked at 200°F for 30 minutes to sterilize) or craft dowels. Place them diagonally so the mantis can reach the top of the enclosure.
• Fake plants: Silk or plastic plants give your mantis places to hide, hunt from, and add visual barriers that reduce stress. Avoid sharp plastic edges.
• A horizontal perch near the top: Mantises molt hanging upside down. They need something near the enclosure ceiling to grip during molting. Mesh lids work perfectly for this, which is another point in favor of screen-top enclosures.

Optional but nice:

• Cork bark pieces (natural-looking, great for climbing)
• Dried leaf litter (for dead leaf mantis species, adds camouflage)
• Small suction-cup vines (stick to glass/acrylic walls)

Don’t overcrowd the enclosure. Your mantis needs room to strike at prey, which requires a clear “hunting zone” in front of its perching spot. Think of it as a balance: enough cover to feel secure, enough open space to hunt.

Temperature and Heating

Most commonly kept mantis species do well at normal room temperature (68-78°F). But some tropical species need warmer conditions.

Heating options:

• Small heat mat: Place on the side (never underneath, as mantises don’t thermoregulate from below). Use a thermostat to prevent overheating.
• Low-wattage heat lamp: A 25W incandescent bulb above the enclosure works for some setups, but monitor temperature closely.
• Room heater: If you keep multiple mantises, heating the room is often easier than heating individual enclosures.

Always use a thermometer inside the enclosure. Don’t guess. A $3 digital thermometer is one of the best investments you’ll make.

For detailed size and environment charts by species, we have a dedicated reference page.

Humidity and Misting

Humidity requirements vary significantly between species, and getting this wrong is one of the most common causes of failed molts.

General guidelines:

• Temperate species: 40-60% humidity. Light misting every 2-3 days is usually sufficient.
• Tropical species: 60-80% humidity. Mist daily or every other day, depending on your enclosure’s ventilation.
• Desert species: 30-40% humidity. Mist lightly once a week. Provide a small water source.

When misting, spray the walls and decorations, not the mantis directly (most don’t appreciate being sprayed). Your mantis will drink water droplets from the surfaces. Some keepers also offer water on a spoon or from a bottle cap, which works well.

Signs of humidity problems:

• Too low: Failed molts (stuck shed), mantis drinking frequently, dry/shriveled appearance
• Too high: Mold growth, standing water, condensation that doesn’t clear, fungal infections

A cheap hygrometer ($5-8) takes the guesswork out of humidity management. I consider it essential equipment for tropical species.

Common Enclosure Mistakes

1. The Enclosure Is Too Big

Yes, too big is a real problem with mantises. In an oversized enclosure, your mantis may not be able to find its food. Feeder insects scatter and hide, and a hungry mantis can’t chase prey across a 20-gallon tank. Stick to the 3x rule.

2. No Molting Space

A mantis needs to hang upside down with enough room below it to slide out of its old exoskeleton. If the enclosure is too short or too cluttered near the top, bad molts happen. Keep the upper third of the enclosure relatively clear.

3. Inadequate Ventilation

I’ve already covered this, but it bears repeating. Poked holes in a plastic lid are not ventilation. Your mantis needs actual airflow. Mold will kill your mantis faster than almost anything.

4. Placing the Enclosure in Direct Sunlight

Glass and acrylic enclosures in direct sunlight become ovens. Even 20 minutes of direct sun on a warm day can push internal temperatures above 100°F and kill your mantis. Keep enclosures in bright, indirect light.

5. Housing Multiple Mantises Together

Mantises are cannibals. Housing two together means you’ll eventually have one very well-fed mantis and one dead one. Always house mantises individually, with very rare exceptions for communal species like ghost mantises (and even then, it’s risky).

For a complete beginner’s guide to mantis care beyond just the enclosure, see our ultimate praying mantis pet care guide.

Budget-Friendly Setup List

You don’t need to spend a fortune. Here’s a basic setup that works well for most species:

Final Thoughts

Setting up a mantis enclosure is one of the simplest parts of mantis keeping, but getting the details right matters. Focus on three things: proper size (3x rule), good ventilation (cross-flow, not just a few holes), and appropriate humidity for your species.

Don’t overthink the aesthetics on your first setup. A mesh enclosure with a few sticks and a paper towel substrate will keep your mantis perfectly healthy. You can always upgrade to a fancy bioactive display enclosure once you have some experience.

The most important thing is getting your mantis out of that shipping cup and into a real home. They deserve better than a plastic tube, and they’ll reward you with better feeding responses, successful molts, and more visible natural behaviors when they have the space to express them.

If you think your pet is ill, call a vet immediately. All health-related questions should be referred to your veterinarian. They can examine your pet, understand its health history, and make well informed recommendations for your pet.

903pets.com Staff